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回复: 哪些花的花期长？
帮顶一下，最爱正红色天竺葵，夏季花园常驻。
帮顶一下，最爱正红色天竺葵，夏季花园常驻。
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回复: 哪些花的花期长？
马蹄莲也很长 。。。
马蹄莲也很长 。。。
回复: 哪些花的花期长？
昨天刚买正红色天竺葵
马蹄莲刚开
昨天刚买正红色天竺葵
马蹄莲刚开
回复: 哪些花的花期长？
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Ten Favorite Long Blooming Perennials[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']These are my picks for the best long blooming perennials for Michigan gardens. There were three criteria I used in selecting these ten. First, they had to be very low maintenance plants. Second, they had to be easily located in local garden centers, or, at the very least, in most catalogs. Finally, they had to be plants that would all work well together. What this list gives you is, in essence, a complete garden plan for a low-maintenance, long-blooming garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']1. Coreopsis[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Moonbeam," "Zagreb," "Early Sunrise"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Coreopsis gives you huge bang for your buck in the garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Coreopsis "Indian Summer"
Photo Courtesy of Proven Winners©
[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']http://www.provenwinners.com[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']They are prolific bloomers that need little more than regular deadheading to be happy. Place them in full sun and average soil. In fact, they don't like soil that is too fertile, as they will become floppy over time. Coreopsis should be divided every three years or so to keep them vigorous. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']2. Daylily (Hemerocallis)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Stella D'Oro," "Pardon Me," and any variety with "Returns" in the name[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Certain varieties of daylily are longer bloomers than others. The common orange daylily that you see everywhere, while beautiful, is not the best choice if you want continuous color. Choose one of the above varieties, and give it average soil in a location with full sun to part shade. Remove the spent flowers and stalks to keep the plant looking tidy. For more on daylilies, see our [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Plant Profile[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'].[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']3. Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Pink Delight," "Adonis Blue," "Peacock," "Black Knight," "Guinevere"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Buddleia "Peacock"
Photo Courtesy of Proven Winners©
[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']http://www.provenwinners.com[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Buddleias, commonly called butterfly bush, are wonderful accents to a garden. They are absolutely gorgeous in bloom; their plumes of pink, purple, blue, or white flowers attracting butterflies all summer long. They are very easy to care for, fast growing, and fragrant. Place them in full sun and semi-moist soil. Simply remove the spent blooms to keep it flowering from July until frost. To prune, cut the plant either all the way down to the ground, or back to green wood in March. Cutting it back helps develop tons of blooms for the coming season.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']4. Lavender (Lavandula)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Hidcote," "Munstead," "Grosso"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']My personal favorite, because lavender is my favorite fragrance in the entire world. Put these beauties in full sun, in soil that stays relatively dry. After they bloom, cut the flower stalks off (save them, either for potpourri, sachets, or dried arrangements. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Lavender "Munstead"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Even the stems have that gorgeous scent!) and you will soon enjoy a second, smaller bloom. The blooms last a long time. If necessary, you can prune lavender in early spring, just as new growth starts. Just be sure not to cut into old, woody stems because new growth (and blooms) don't grow from old wood. Although, to be honest, I haven't had to do more to my lavenders than snip off the occasional winter kill. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']5. Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Goldsturm," "Goldilocks," "Indian Summer"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Rudbeckia are everything a plant should be: cheerful, drought-tolerant, and care free. Besides all that, if you leave the seed heads on after the flowers fade, you will have winter interest as well. Plant Rudbeckia in full sun. They are easy self-sowers as well. Where I once had a small plant, I have what now seems more like a Rudbeckia shrub! Rudbeckias rarely need dividing, but digging up the volunteers and planting them elsewhere in the garden isn't a bad idea. You'll want to have this plant all throughout your garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']6. Russian Sage (Perovskia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Little Spire," "Blue Spire," "Longin"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Russian Sage sports tall spikes of delicate, lavender-blue flowers above lacy, grayish-green foliage. Russian Sage is fragrant. Plant them in full sun in fairly dry soil. I do absolutely nothing to my Russian Sage. You could cut back the old stems in the spring, but I leave mine standing year round. I think this is the one plant in my landscape that I honestly haven't touched since I put it in the ground![/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']7. Yarrow (Achillea)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Gold Plate," "Summerwine," "Coronation Gold"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Yarrow can grow up to 40" tall and up to two feet wide. Give them full sun and average soil. Yarrow is very drought-tolerant. Once the flowers start to fade, cut the stems back to lateral buds to encourage more blooms. You can leave the stalks over the winter for seasonal interest, and cut the stalks down all the way to the clump of basal foliage in the spring. Yarrow also makes great cut and dried flowers.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']8. Coneflower (Echinacea)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Echinacea "Magnus"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Magnus," "White Swan," "Big Sky Sunrise"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']The best way to get prolonged bloom in your Echinacea is to remove the spent blooms. Smaller flowers will follow. I usually deadhead mine once, and then I leave the remaining flowers and seed heads all winter for seasonal interest as well as food for the birds. For more on coneflowers, see our [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Plant Profile[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'].[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']9. Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Becky," "Alaska," "Silver Spoons"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Leucanthemum x superbum[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']The shastas I have in my yard are the legacy of the former homeowner, who had tons of them planted behind the garage. Once I saw their cheerful blooms, I dug them up and put them in the main yard where I could enjoy them. Shastas are tough, require hardly any care, and are drought tolerant. The only problem I have with them (mine is the old kind, Leucanthemum x superbum-maybe other varieties don't have this problem) is that they are prolific self-sowers. I spend quite a while in the spring pulling up Shasta seedlings. However, keeping them deadheaded will kill two birds with one stone. It will reduce the amount of self-sowing, and it will promote more blooms. Plant these cheerful flowers in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Shastas also make great cut flowers.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']10. Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Butterfly Blue," "Pink Mist," "Deepwaters"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Scabiosa "Butterfly Blue"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']These are wonderful not only for their long bloom period, but also for the fact that butterflies love them. Scabiosa gets up to two fee tall and wide. The plant consists of a mound of dark green, lacy foliage with tall strong stems, which hold up blooms in pink, white, purple, or blue. Plant them in full sun to part shade and well-drained soil. Keep them deadheaded to prolong bloom. As an added bonus, the foliage is evergreen. Leave the foliage through the winter, just cut back the flower stems. I have these is my side yard with Shasta daisies, Buddleia, and old-fashioned orange daylilies. I have color from Late May until frost![/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']So, there they are. Ten perennials that will work hard all summer so you don't have to! [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']ITGO[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Ten Favorite Long Blooming Perennials[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']These are my picks for the best long blooming perennials for Michigan gardens. There were three criteria I used in selecting these ten. First, they had to be very low maintenance plants. Second, they had to be easily located in local garden centers, or, at the very least, in most catalogs. Finally, they had to be plants that would all work well together. What this list gives you is, in essence, a complete garden plan for a low-maintenance, long-blooming garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']1. Coreopsis[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Moonbeam," "Zagreb," "Early Sunrise"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Coreopsis gives you huge bang for your buck in the garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Coreopsis "Indian Summer"
Photo Courtesy of Proven Winners©
[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']http://www.provenwinners.com[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']They are prolific bloomers that need little more than regular deadheading to be happy. Place them in full sun and average soil. In fact, they don't like soil that is too fertile, as they will become floppy over time. Coreopsis should be divided every three years or so to keep them vigorous. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']2. Daylily (Hemerocallis)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Stella D'Oro," "Pardon Me," and any variety with "Returns" in the name[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Certain varieties of daylily are longer bloomers than others. The common orange daylily that you see everywhere, while beautiful, is not the best choice if you want continuous color. Choose one of the above varieties, and give it average soil in a location with full sun to part shade. Remove the spent flowers and stalks to keep the plant looking tidy. For more on daylilies, see our [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Plant Profile[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'].[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']3. Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Pink Delight," "Adonis Blue," "Peacock," "Black Knight," "Guinevere"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Buddleia "Peacock"
Photo Courtesy of Proven Winners©
[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']http://www.provenwinners.com[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Buddleias, commonly called butterfly bush, are wonderful accents to a garden. They are absolutely gorgeous in bloom; their plumes of pink, purple, blue, or white flowers attracting butterflies all summer long. They are very easy to care for, fast growing, and fragrant. Place them in full sun and semi-moist soil. Simply remove the spent blooms to keep it flowering from July until frost. To prune, cut the plant either all the way down to the ground, or back to green wood in March. Cutting it back helps develop tons of blooms for the coming season.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']4. Lavender (Lavandula)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Hidcote," "Munstead," "Grosso"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']My personal favorite, because lavender is my favorite fragrance in the entire world. Put these beauties in full sun, in soil that stays relatively dry. After they bloom, cut the flower stalks off (save them, either for potpourri, sachets, or dried arrangements. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Lavender "Munstead"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Even the stems have that gorgeous scent!) and you will soon enjoy a second, smaller bloom. The blooms last a long time. If necessary, you can prune lavender in early spring, just as new growth starts. Just be sure not to cut into old, woody stems because new growth (and blooms) don't grow from old wood. Although, to be honest, I haven't had to do more to my lavenders than snip off the occasional winter kill. [/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']5. Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Goldsturm," "Goldilocks," "Indian Summer"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Rudbeckia are everything a plant should be: cheerful, drought-tolerant, and care free. Besides all that, if you leave the seed heads on after the flowers fade, you will have winter interest as well. Plant Rudbeckia in full sun. They are easy self-sowers as well. Where I once had a small plant, I have what now seems more like a Rudbeckia shrub! Rudbeckias rarely need dividing, but digging up the volunteers and planting them elsewhere in the garden isn't a bad idea. You'll want to have this plant all throughout your garden.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']6. Russian Sage (Perovskia)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Little Spire," "Blue Spire," "Longin"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Russian Sage sports tall spikes of delicate, lavender-blue flowers above lacy, grayish-green foliage. Russian Sage is fragrant. Plant them in full sun in fairly dry soil. I do absolutely nothing to my Russian Sage. You could cut back the old stems in the spring, but I leave mine standing year round. I think this is the one plant in my landscape that I honestly haven't touched since I put it in the ground![/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']7. Yarrow (Achillea)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Gold Plate," "Summerwine," "Coronation Gold"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Yarrow can grow up to 40" tall and up to two feet wide. Give them full sun and average soil. Yarrow is very drought-tolerant. Once the flowers start to fade, cut the stems back to lateral buds to encourage more blooms. You can leave the stalks over the winter for seasonal interest, and cut the stalks down all the way to the clump of basal foliage in the spring. Yarrow also makes great cut and dried flowers.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']8. Coneflower (Echinacea)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Echinacea "Magnus"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Magnus," "White Swan," "Big Sky Sunrise"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']The best way to get prolonged bloom in your Echinacea is to remove the spent blooms. Smaller flowers will follow. I usually deadhead mine once, and then I leave the remaining flowers and seed heads all winter for seasonal interest as well as food for the birds. For more on coneflowers, see our [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Plant Profile[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'].[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']9. Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Becky," "Alaska," "Silver Spoons"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Leucanthemum x superbum[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']The shastas I have in my yard are the legacy of the former homeowner, who had tons of them planted behind the garage. Once I saw their cheerful blooms, I dug them up and put them in the main yard where I could enjoy them. Shastas are tough, require hardly any care, and are drought tolerant. The only problem I have with them (mine is the old kind, Leucanthemum x superbum-maybe other varieties don't have this problem) is that they are prolific self-sowers. I spend quite a while in the spring pulling up Shasta seedlings. However, keeping them deadheaded will kill two birds with one stone. It will reduce the amount of self-sowing, and it will promote more blooms. Plant these cheerful flowers in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Shastas also make great cut flowers.[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']10. Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa)[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']"Butterfly Blue," "Pink Mist," "Deepwaters"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']
Scabiosa "Butterfly Blue"[/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']These are wonderful not only for their long bloom period, but also for the fact that butterflies love them. Scabiosa gets up to two fee tall and wide. The plant consists of a mound of dark green, lacy foliage with tall strong stems, which hold up blooms in pink, white, purple, or blue. Plant them in full sun to part shade and well-drained soil. Keep them deadheaded to prolong bloom. As an added bonus, the foliage is evergreen. Leave the foliage through the winter, just cut back the flower stems. I have these is my side yard with Shasta daisies, Buddleia, and old-fashioned orange daylilies. I have color from Late May until frost![/FONT]
[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']So, there they are. Ten perennials that will work hard all summer so you don't have to! [/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif']ITGO[/FONT][FONT='Times New Roman','serif'][/FONT]
