Buying a Used Car
A car is a big investment, possibly the largest or second largest purchase you'll ever make. For most of us that means borrowing from a bank, credit union or some other financial institution. So it's a good idea to shop around for the best interest rates before you purchase. Decide how much you want to pay for the car, set a maximum and don't go over it.
Cars come with some built-in expenses that should also be included in your total cost calculations. In addition to sales tax, registration and insurance costs, put aside some funds for a mechanical inspection. An extended warranty can also be a good investment or it's a good idea to keep a little "nest egg" ($500 to $1000) for possible repairs, if needed
A hasty purchase can be a future headache when buying a used car. To avoid the lemons you have to do some research. There's lots of good auto consumer information available on the Internet and publications like Consumer Reports are excellent, which you can probably also find at your local public library. BCAA members you can get use car reviews and book values on its web site.
Armed with all this information you should be able to draw up a short list of cars in your price range that you expect will meet your needs. Now you're ready to go "kick tires" and shop around for the right one. If you're buying a car from another individual (private sale), it's wise to do a lien and accident search.
Keep in mind that almost every used car will have some flaws. What you want to avoid is a big costly fix, a vehicle with major mechanical or body problems. Ask the seller about the car's accident record, history of ownership and service record. If the seller is co-operative in answering your questions, chances are good that he has nothing to hide.
What to look for:
Check odometer reading: the average distance is 18,000 to 20,000-km per year.
Does the odometer reading correspond with the general condition? Excessive wear on the pedal rubbers, upholstery and carpeting could indicate a great deal of driving.
Inspect the car body by scanning along the side of it for dents, ripples or signs of repainting which might indicate recent bodywork.
Check the body for rusting. Bottom of all doors, wheel openings and lower body panels are prime locations. Paint blisters or cracking can be signs of rusting under paint or worse - rust perforation from the other side of the panel.
Check the tire treads for excessive wear. Four new tires would be an expensive start. Is there a spare wheel, jack and wheel wrench? Are they in good condition?
Do the doors, trunk and hood fit and close snugly? Try the door lock mechanism and window regulator to see if they work. Do the windows close completely.
Check for damp carpets or a musty, damp smell inside the car, which could indicate a leak of some sort. Press down each corner of the vehicle. It should come to rest quickly. If it keeps bouncing, the shock absorbers probably need replacing.
If the engine is cold remove the radiator cap and check level and condition of coolant. Check engine side or radiator for signs of leakage or corrosion. re-check for leaks after road test. Do not remove radiator cap when engine is warm.
Road testing:
If the car looks promising, take it for a road test. A quiet, residential area or an open space is the best testing environment.
Does the car start immediately and idle smoothly once warm? Are the engine gauges and warning lights operating? Check again while driving.
Try all the accessories, buttons and switches. Try the park brake and see if the brake warning light comes on.
On both smooth and rough surfaces, start and stop the car, drive forward and backward, make several turns in both directions. For most automobiles there should be no more than 50mm (2 inches) plain in the steering wheel. Listen for unusual noises.
Make several sharp turns at low speed. The steering shouldn't stiffen up and bind. If there is power steering, no squeaks, moans or sudden increase of steering effort should occur.
Either descend a long hill with your foot off the accelerator, or in a flat area, decelerate from 80km/h to about 25km/h without using the brake. Then step hard on the accelerator. If there is heavy blue exhaust smoke, the engine may need an overhaul.
Try several emergency stops to check the brakes. They should feel firm, not spongy and should not grab or swerve the car.
Try the transmission in all gears. Manual transmissions should shift moothly and not grind. Automatic transmissions that allow excessive engine speeds between gears may need major repairs.
The purchase:
Time has come to sign the papers! A dealer "Conditional Sale Agreement" is a legal and binding document and should state clearly all the conditions of the sale, including:
Full description of the vehicle
Full purchase price
Terms for payment
Trade-in allowance if applicable
Any warranty or guarantee agreed upon
Repairs agreed upon by both parties
Last but not least, before you buy any car, have it checked by a reputable auto mechanic. In the Greater Vancouver area BCAA operates a mobile and station inspection service. Rates are very competitive and special discounts are available to BCAA members.
.要不译一个试试