再来说说家具中常用的皮革类材料。
不知道大家是否和我一样也经常被这些名词搞混,每次家具广告尤其是沙发的,经常会有不同的皮革描述,这些所谓的genuine leather, bonded leather, leatherette, leather match, full leather, top grain leather, full grain leather, split leather , 等到底是什么意思,有什么区别呢。
下面我详细介绍一下,下面的英文写得还是比较容易懂的,我把一些单词的意思加解释在里面了。
所谓的
genuine leather中文翻译是真皮,”真皮”在皮革制品市场上是常见的字眼,是人们为区别合成革而对天然皮革的一种习惯叫法。在消费者的观念中,“真皮”也具有非假的含义。它主要是由动物的皮加工而成。真皮种类繁多,品种多样,结构不同,品质各异,价格也相差悬殊。因此,真皮既是所有天然皮革的统称,也是商品市场上一个含糊的标识。 genuine leather也是一样的概念。
In general, leather is sold in four forms: 这里我们可以理解是皮(真皮)通常分为下面四种。
1.
Full-grain leather refers to hides兽皮 that have not been sanded打磨, buffed抛光, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) to remove imperfections瑕疵 (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability呼吸, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a patina over time. High quality leather furniture and footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline苯胺革 and semi-aniline半苯胺革。(是革的两种染色方式)
Full-grain Leather has not had the upper "top grain" and "split" layers separated. The upper section of a hide that previously contained the epidermis and hair, but were removed from the hide/skin.
Full grain leather没有把皮的头层和二层分离开,皮的表层是有毛发等,那些会被除去的。
Full-grain Leather是最高档的皮了,中文叫【全粒面革】,全粒面革指保留并使用动物皮本来表面(生长毛或鳞的一面)的皮革,也叫正面革。成革粒面层保持完整。粒面上大都经过涂饰,能清晰见到动物皮特有的毛孔和粒纹特征,可据以辨认该皮革由何种动物皮加工制成。全粒面革是皮革的主要品种。全粒面革用于制作绝大部分的革制品。全粒面革所用的原料要求伤残少的高等级原料皮,且加工要求也高,属高档皮革,并且因皮革的表面完整地保留在革上,其坚牢性能好,全粒面皮革表面不经涂饰或涂饰很薄,保持了皮革的柔软弹性和良好的透气性,其制成品舒适、耐久、美观。
2.
Top-grain leather (the most common type used in upper end leather products) is the second-highest quality. It has had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added to the surface which results in a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it will not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater resistance to stains than full-grain leather, so long as the finish remains unbroken.
国内常说的头层皮,Top grain是仅次于full grain leather的皮了。
3.
Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned (植鞣革)or aniline leather(苯胺革). The imperfections are corrected or sanded off, and an artificial grain impressed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline(半苯胺革) and pigmented(涂料革).
修正粒面皮革(Corrected-grain leather),修面革是表面的皮纹被磨光的皮革,比全粒面皮革的质量要差。一般表面涂漆、烫花来掩饰无皮纹的缺陷。利用磨革机将表面轻魔后进行涂饰,再压上相应的花纹而制成的。实际上是对带有伤残或粗糙的天然革面进行了“整容”。此种革几乎失掉了原有的表面状态。
4.
Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation剖层, the top grain头层 and drop split 底层are separated. The drop split底层 can be further split (thickness allowing如果厚度够的话) into a middle split 中间层and a flesh split内面层. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered to be a true form of suede.[3]
Split leather常说是二层皮. 也常叫bicast leather.
二层革:是厚皮用片皮机剖层而得,头层用来做top grain或修面革,二层经过涂饰或贴膜等系列工序制成二层革,它的牢度耐磨性较差,是同类皮革中最廉价的一种。二层牛皮其反面是牛皮的第二层皮料,在表面涂上一层PU树脂,所以也称贴膜牛皮。其价格较便宜,利用率高。其随工艺的变化也制成各种档次的品种。
底层的皮因为厚度的不同,往往还可能被分离成更多的层,如二层,三层皮,当然就是很薄的了。
Split层也经常被用来做成起毛皮革(Suede),又称翻毛皮革,是将皮革从中间剖开而造成毛绒表面。因为厚度只有修正粒面皮革的1/2以下,起毛皮革质地更不结实。有些时候厂家把起毛皮革表面上胶,压出皮纹来模仿全粒面皮革的外观。
其他名词:
Full Leather means the complete sofa is made by 100% Leather without any other artificial material in the surface. This applies to sofa set and sectionals.
这个Full leather的翻译是全皮,你可以理解就是整个沙发的表面都是皮的就是genuine leather(不管它是头层,二层,反正都是皮),没有任何其他人造革的材料。而很多的沙发是和人接触部分是Genuine leather,其他背后及底部都是人造革的,这种就叫Leather match.
Leather Match generally means the front area wherever will possibly touch customers skin is in Genuine Leather and other part is Artificial Material like Vinyl([化]乙烯基 是塑料的一种), PU, etc.
“Faux Leather” or “Leather Match”
Don’t be fooled by these terms it is all Polyurethane聚亚安酯! However, don’t be put off by the use of PU, it is a way to REDUCE the price of a chair, is hard wearing and tough, and is an excellent match with the leather. Mostly it is used on the non-contact areas of a chair, with the sole purpose of reducing the price saving you money!
“Faux Leather” or “Leather Match”是仿皮,通常用在沙发的不和人体接触的部分,用来降低成本。
PU Leather is synthetic leather合成皮 or artificial leather人造革. It is made by polyurethane聚亚安酯,塑料的一种. Thickness of the PU leather will define its price. Normally PU leather is less durable than real leather and more environmental friendly. It is ideally for animal concern customers and designed for light usage sofa.
Vinyl is best-known for being a substitute for leather. It may be called "faux leather" or "fake leather." Vinyl is a kind of plastic resin made from chlorine and ethylene. The name "vinyl" is actually derived from its full name of "polyvinylchloride" (PVC). Vinyl是塑料的一种
Italian Leather is commonly known leather made in Italy or leather made by using Italian Techniques. Producers in Italy use a variety of labor sources, with much of the process of leather production being done by hand. Hides are carefully inspected before treatment, with only the best hides being accepted, and quality checks are carried out at every stage of the way. Many producers specialize in full grain leather, leather from the top of the hide which is famous for its suppleness and quality. Italian producers tend to use high quality dyes and chemicals in their products, producing consistent, durable, long-lasting leather products. 意大利皮,这个毫无疑问也是价格最为昂贵的,一般都是用的全粒面皮。
The following are not "true" leathers, but contain leather material. Depending on jurisdiction, they may still be labeled as "Genuine Leather":
下面两种不是真正的皮,但是根据不同的角度范围,经常也会被人称为Genuine leather 真皮. 它们是最广泛的用来制作沙发的皮革。
Bonded leather, or "reconstituted leather", is composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of leather at a fraction of the cost. This bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently.
BONDED LEATHER再生皮,可以这么理解,再生皮和真皮的关系就类似于复合板和木板的关系,大家知道家具用的复合板是用碎木再生的,而bonded leather就是把真皮的碎料重新再生的皮,通常是由90~100%的真皮组成的。所以某些时候也被人称为”真皮”。
Bonded leather兼有真皮和PU的特点,是现今非常通用的家具皮革、皮具、沙发皮革的高档材料。同真皮一样,再生皮具有吸湿、透气性,做工好的还具有真皮一样的柔软度、弹性,质地轻、对极端的高低温耐受力强、耐磨。其不足之处是强度差于同等厚度的真皮,由于再生皮革的生产工艺比较灵活、可以实时调整,因此通过增加天然乳胶的用量,改动工艺配方,同样可以作出各种不同软硬度,不同强度的产品来弥补她本身的不足。其后期的表面贴膜处理与PU类似,在表面纹路及颜色上再生皮革也是花色不但翻新、新品层出不穷通过。更重要的是BONDED LEATHER极具竞争性的价格,非常超值,性价比高。
Bicast leather (also known as bycast leather, split leather or PU. leather) is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry for glossy shoes, and recently was adopted by the furniture industry. The resulting product has an artificially consistent texture that is easier to clean and maintain. The original formula created by Bayer was strong but expensive. Most of the bycast used today is a very strong and durable product. The result is a slightly stiffer product that is cheaper than top grain leather but has a much more consistent texture and is easier to clean and maintain.
这个Bicast或者Bycast leather 是属于split leather就是二层皮或者从二层皮中再分出来的,是属于真皮中最廉价的一种。
Bycast Leather:是PU贴膜牛皮革专用名称, 二层牛皮皮胚经过处理后用干法发泡工艺、湿法工艺移上一层PU涂层,再用离型纸在其表面进行印花,再在表面进行颜色处理。
另外在不同的国家对这个Bicast leather是否属于genuine leather是有所不同的。比如中国和美,加都是把它归类于真皮的范畴的,可以称为Genuine leather而在新西兰则Bicast皮不属于Genuine leather的。
The use of terms like "leather", "genuine leather" or "100% leather" in relation to this bicast treatment is considered a misrepresentation and therefore not permitted in some countries, e.g., New Zealand.[1] Furniture made with bicast exhibits none of the characteristics associated withaniline leather; it will not develop a patina or suppleness nor otherwise "improve with age". With constant use the polyurethane layer may crack and split free of its backing.[2][3]
Modern technology permits up to three or four horizontal layers being taken from a single hide. The leather used in the backing of bicast is a thin layer, remaining after other layers have been removed for traditional leather work.[citation needed]
Furniture manufacturers[4] say that the main benefit of bicast leather is its price. Lower grades of leather can be used during the manufacturing process, and treating with polyurethane gives a uniform shine and a long-lasting "like new" appearance. Bicast leather looks best, they say, on furniture with taut seat cushions and pillows. It can easily be cleaned with a damp cloth. New bicast leather furniture can have a slight chemical smell, but this typically dissipates about a week after the piece is exposed to air.[5]
真皮和再生皮的比较。
http://www.bondedleather.ca/
Bonded leather in Comparison with Bicast Leather
A Bicast leather is also known as bycast leather, PU leather or split type leather. It has a polyurethane or vinyl layer attached to its surface before embossed. It was first used by shoe manufacturers and then later on assimilated by furniture manufacturers. Unlike bonded leather which resembles a genuine leather look and feel, bicast leather does not exhibit characteristic of genuine leather such as the feel of suppleness as it aged. With frequent use its polyurethane layer may split.
真皮当中的full grain 或者top grain或是correct grain的和bonded leather是不用比的,毫无疑问肯定是比bonded leather好很多的,当然其价格也没有可比性。
真皮沙发中,如果价格低的肯定就是bicast leather, bicast leather有好的差的,好的手感可以接近于头层皮,差的就和纸一样薄。
我觉得应该说是如果薄的bicast leather是还不如bonded leather 的。抑或可以这么理解,同样价格的沙发那么宁可选择bonded leather的,会比bicast leather更耐用。就是说买便宜的bicast leather的沙发,不如买同样价格的bonded leather 沙发。因为bicast leather的成本是比bonded leather要高的。
Bicast, on the other hand, does not age well. In fact, it cracks and peels in to it’s individual layers after it has seen too much friction. And, since the texture is actually embossed by a large factory press on to the polyurethane surface, the appeal of a unique, one-of-kind piece is no longer a factor.
Bicast leather最大的问题是不经用,随着时间的流逝,很容易开裂。
SPLIT LEATHER is the part that is left behind when the top layer is peeled off. It still has all the virtues of the original leather, but does not have any texture or colouring of its own, so it is always stamped with an artificial texture and dyed to give it colour. A good split leather can feel similar to top grain leather; a poor one can feel papery and unsupple.
Split leather就是二层皮,好的牛二层皮可能和头层皮一样的手感,差的就可能像纸一样单薄。
Bonded leather upholstery is a vinyl upholstery that contains about 17% leather fiber in its backing material. The vinyl is stamped to give it a leather-like texture. Bonded leather upholstery is durable and its manufacturing process is more environmentally-friendly than leather production.[citation needed]
Bonded leather upholstery和Bonded leather 是两个概念哦。Upholstery是外层装饰,Bonded leather upholstery是指这种vinyl upholstery塑料的装饰布的底层材料里含有17%的皮纤维。所以这种塑料会给人以皮的图案。
leatherette 就是人造革,仿皮的意思,也就是理解成genuine leather的反义词。
希望看完的同学对这些名词有了比较清楚的概念,至少去买沙发的时候多问几句皮的材料,人家解释起来你也能听得明白些。假如说卖家具的店员不能很正确的介绍沙发的材料,那么就别买。最好是在receipt上让他们写下来具体的皮的材料。比如是top grain还是bicast或者是bonded leather等。如果你买沙发的时候问是不是top grain leather还是bicast leather, 那么他们就会觉得你是内行的,不敢随便忽悠你,假如你问是不是Genuine leather,那么他们没准就会把bicast leather甚至bonded leather都说成是genuine leather了。
我一直认为一分钱一分货,但是不想被人蒙骗啊,花钱就得明白消费,该是什么材料就得是什么材料,不能说明明是bonded leather就告诉我说是genuine leather,明明是bicast leather告诉我是top grain leather.
(这篇帖子写了2天,我自己也搞清楚了很多名词了,但是毕竟我不是学这个专业的,如果有一些理解错误的地方,欢迎指正,共同探讨。这个帖子的主要目的是让同学们多了解皮革知识,在和卖家咨询的时候显得更专业,不容易被骗。尤其是英文名词方面,多知道总是有用的。)