再来一篇，paint scrapper是不是刮刀啊？
Prep
Take time to make an assessment of your project. Note the condition of the all the surfaces to be painted. In general you will find areas that have pealing or weathered paint, discolored or faded areas, dirty and mildewed surfaces. To check to see if the surfaces is chalky, wipe a colored rag across the surface to see if it picks up the color.
Windows can be a job themselves. Older style windows may have loose or missing glazing compound (putty) to deal with before they can be painted.
As you go through the prep process it is possible you may find areas that need minor if not major repair. Common problem areas are where window casings meet the window sill, the bottom of door casings and where wood is low to the ground. These are areas where moisture has a high potential collect and cause wood to decay. If you should encounter any rot problems, it is important that repaired as soon as possible to prevent further spreading.
Before starting the work, consider any near by power lines in the area you will be working. Call the utility company to have them place protective covers over the lines. This is a free service in many communities .
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Having tools and materials on hand ahead of time will save you a few interruptive trips to the hardware store while you seemed to be making some real progress. Although we all need a break from this kind of labor from time to time.
Make a list of common items such as ;
Tools :Extension ladders, step ladder, scrappers, putty knife, paint brushes, caulk gun, dust brush, buckets, pot hooks, drop cloths, hammer, screwdriver, pliers, wash brush, sponge, stir sticks, water hose & nozzle, pieces of boards to shim under ladders, rope, "wet paint" signs.
Materials: Sandpaper, caulk, scrapper blades, wood filler, rags, masking tape, primer, finish paint, paint thinner, window glazing, window points, nails.
Personal Items: Dust mask, hat, work gloves, rubber, gloves, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, first-aid kit in case of cuts, scratches, ect.
Quality: We believe it is important to do a good & thorough job, however to be very fussy on an exterior is probably not practical is most cases, as this could add days, weeks or even months of prep work labor if one is an extreme perfectionist
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Beginning the work
Rotating your work: As you work you will probably want to work on a shady side of the house. This way you may end up with two or more sides scraped before you do any priming. You may choose to complete all of the scraping first , but if a side is scraped and the surface is dry it may be a good idea to prime the side before the next rain. This way you may end up with some sides primed before other sides are scraped. Any way that is best for you is ok, but try not to work in direct sunlight and get the priming done while the surface is dry.
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Setting up: Any Shutters & paint-able storm windows can be removed and done on a work bench. You may chose to remove the window screens before you began to prevent them from being spattered. It is very difficult to remove paint from screens. You will probably have some steps, decks, sidewalks or other items to cover before you begin to spread any paint {Caution do not set ladders (except for open step ladders) on drop cloths}
Also See Ladder Safety
Washing: Washing exterior surfaces prior to painting is highly recommended by many paint companies today, however; depending on the condition often surfaces can be successfully painted without washing. You will at least have to use a dust brush in some areas. It may be best if you at least wash some of the building before it is painted. If it is very dirty chalky or mildewed it should be probably washed.
If you decide to wash, we usually recommend washing the exterior surface before it is scraped. After washing, any wood surfaces should be allowed several days drying time before it is primed See Washing Surfaces
Also See Repaint Illustrations 1
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Scrapping is one of the hardest jobs included in a repaint project. We recommend using1 & 2 inch scrappers although other sizes are available. Most paint scrappers have changeable blades because it does not take to get them dull, although we have learned to sharpen our scrappers with a file to cut down on buying replacement blades. However we still recommend buying new blades each time between major painting projects.
Very seldom is all or a high percentage of the old paint removed from the exterior of a building before it is painted. To do so would take a great deal of work or cost thousands of dollars.
The objective here is to scrape off any loose paint. All pealing areas will have loose paint around the edges. You should try to remove all of this loose paint until the remaining paint feels tightly bonded. If the remaining paint is difficult to remove, and you see no loose edges then you have probably scraped the area enough. A chisel-edge putty knife will often help to remove loose paint.
Start scrapping at the top of the building cover all areas that may possibly need some scrapping. Carry a piece of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper with you, and use it to take down some of the hard edges of the paint and any frayed wood. It will usually be to difficult and time consuming to featheredge all paint edges so do not get carried away with the sanding. Any heavily rusted nail heads can be quickly sanded over at the same time to remove loose rust.
Small holes can be filled with filled with the appropriate patching material such as wood doe, exterior spackling or putty
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Priming: The next step is to get all of the bare wood primed .The wood should dry, this is most important if oil base primer is to be used. Usually spot priming is sufficient. If you will be repainting using a colored finish paint, similar to the existing color, it may benefit you to have some primer tinted to an approximate color that you will be using, (especially on darker colors). Paint stores should be able to do this for little or no extra charge. Prime patch material and rusted nail heads also. (See Exterior Paint for information on exterior primers)
Also see Repaint Illustrations Page 2
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Caulking: You may chose to caulk side joints such as where clapboards meet corner boards and window & door casings. Do not caulk the joints under clapboards or joints under or between shingled siding. The objective here is to prevent rain water from running into the joints, but allow moisture to escape from under the overlap joints. We prefer to use a white latex caulk in most cases. This type of caulk can be used directly to most surfaces but will bond better to a primed surface than bare wood or metal. Caulk itself does not usually require primer before painting.
Finish
If you will be painting window sash, you may choose to paint the sash before the rest of the side. This way you may avoid putting the ladder back up on freshly painted surfaces, otherwise you may wait until the siding is finished.
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Overhangs: Generally start with painting the overhang .At the eaves paint the over-hang from one end to the other. At the gable end; paint the overhang (or facer board) from one end, up to the peak, down to the other end. Keep a wet edge while painting. try to complete your work in sections. If the siding is to be painted with the same paint as the overhangs, you can continue on with siding after the overhang is finished. If the siding is to be painted with different paint, then you will probably want to continue to paint overhangs or other trim for a while .
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Siding :
Horizontal siding such as clapboards. Eaves side: Start at the top of the building, work from one end of the wall to the other. Take down only several clapboards at a time depending on the width of the boards. Narrow 4 inch boards you can take 4-7 boards at a time. 10 inch or 12 inch wide siding you may not want to take more than 1 or 2 boards at a time. This will give you painted section across of about 14 to 24 inches wide. When you have reached the other end, then you may stop for a break or just lower your extension ladder and paint another section heading back the other way. This method will help prevent lap marks. When you get down to the tops of the windows or doors then you may paint sections down between the windows an doors. Gable end: Start at the peak. Paint down as many clapboards as you can comfortably reach the entire length of the board. Then move your ladder to begin working from side to side taking a limited number of boards as described above. See Repaint Illustrations Page 3&4
Tip: when painting horizontal siding; generally work over the top of your ladder.
Vertical Siding & T111 (up & down) Eaves side: Start at the top and end of the side. (Suggestion) If you are right handed start at the corner of the building to your right. If Left handed start at the left corner. Set your ladder about 2 feet from the starting corner. Paint a set of the boards down to create a strip about 20 inches wide. You may also paint the corner board at this time if it is to be painted with the same paint. Paint from the top of the wall to the bottom or you may stop at a window ,door casing or in some cases an over lap joint. You can work to one side of your ladder as you go down. (you will have to lower or change you ladder as you go down through). When a section of boards is finished you may take a break. Then move your ladder over about 2 feet and go back up to the top. Paint another strip adjoining to the first strip of boards again from top to bottom . Continue painting strips from top to bottom until you reach the other corner. To paint the last strip you will have to work above the top of you ladder keep lowering your extension ladder or change ladders until you get all the way down.
Tip You can stop for a break any time you finish a section
Shingle Siding: With all of the over laps and joints between shingles, you can paint your section as they come the easiest for you. Just complete all shingles in a section , that is do leave any shingles half painted and move you can make up a section almost any way you choose. But start at the top.
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Trim Boards: If Corner boards and casings are to be painted with the same paint as the siding, you can save your self some climbing by painting them as you paint the siding.
If the trim boards are to be painted with different paint than the siding then of coarse you will paint them before or after the siding is painted. If you will be painting the edge of the trim boards with the trim color, then it may be easier to paint them before the siding is painted. If you will be painting the edge of the trim boards with the siding color and just the face of the trim boards with the trim color, then you will want to paint the trim boards after the siding is painted
In either case paint the overhangs before the siding.
